Onshape Model for those interested.
Wow nice model. I think I’ll try this with linear rods/bearings from an old 3Dprinter I have and printed plate…
Is the router mount 3D printed? Can you share file if so?
What is the stock model z axis motor that Maslow was using in their kits and where to buy them? Thanks
the stock z axis motor that was used is only 12rpm, other users have reported using motors around 100rpm with much faster results. The C beam has very little friction. Even with a 10 lb R22002 router one can easily spin the z axis rod with two fingers. You have to remember that the router is almost horizontal so the c beam supports about half of gravity/weight.
you can get the Cbeam from china and it is already assembled vs. Open builds which is double the price and unassembled.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3d-printer-Z-axis-diy-c-beam-CNC-sliding-table-lead-screw-travel-250mm-T8-screw/32819170005.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3da24c4dBS0l21
BRACKET NEEDS TO HAVE NUBS FILED TO BE MORE NARROW.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/4080-bracket-corner-fitting-angle-aluminum-corner-bracket-fastener-for-EU-standard-4080-aluminum-profile-OB4080/834897_32706680688.html?spm=2114.12010615.8148356.15.303622fcs9zEHz
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3d-printer-belt-closed-loop-rubber-GT2-timing-belt-length-teeth-55-length-110mm-width-6mm/834897_32704945590.html?spm=2114.12010615.8148356.5.712f3ce4S6mhgi
you will also need some m5 screws and 3d printed clamp to fit your router
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The router mount is from Inventables, the rest of the stuff was from Open Builds.
That is a good price on the assembled C beam kit.
No, the maslow cannot drive a stepper motor. To do so would require hardware and
software changes
David Lang
More accurate cuts in the Z-Axis, along with longevity of parts without having to tinker. It sometimes feels like every single time we want to cut something on Maslow, it takes an hour of tinkering to get it running right first. Even with the washer and bushing trick on the router screw completed, the z has significant slop still. The router body has scoring along parts of it from something (not sure what) rubbing during z movement. I’ve used 600 grit sandpaper and graphite spray lube to try to mitigate this, but that is a bandaid in my opinion.
I’d like to know if we tell it to plunge 1/16th of an inch, that’s what it does. Also easier bit changes if we can just leave it installed.
I don’t know much about OnShape but I would LOVE a how-to in similar style to the Maslow assembly instructions, that would be great. Thanks!!
How to steps
#1. print bracket for your router. if you do not have 3d printer use www.3dhubs.com to print locally, pretty much anywhere in usa. make sure design has a space to insert a weld nut, heatset nut or similar to clamp down on router. I have the stl design files if you need them.
#2. attach above bracket to Cbeam gantry plate using M5 screws
#3 insert router into assembly and center bit on your sled
#4 trace around bottom of the c-beam and mark where 4 holes go
#5 drill 4 holes and insert M5 screws from bottom of sled to mount the C-beam to top of sled.
#6 add a couple of 4080 corner brackets for support behind the C-beam.
#7 add z axismotor to top with 3d printed bracket in community garden or using pully/belts, etc.
#8 open up software and adjust for new z axis motor. There is a thread that goes into more detail about there Here: Z-Axis Motor Specs
recommended to buy a coiled extention cord and attach the 6 wire motor control cable to it. The current way the router cable and z axis cable just dangle can lead to snags.
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I would be nervous about a 3d printed bracket, I have a 2’x4’ CNC that a friend
and I built, he insisted on using wood (oak) for the router brackets, and we
ended up one time with a bit that became unbalanced and the wood cracked and the
router went flying (wiht the bit spinning), this happened in seconds, no time to
hit the e-stop button.
I would be very worried about a 3d printed bracket breaking along the layer
boundries and having the same thing happen.
pick up some muffler clamps, they are available in 3" and 4" sizes and are all
metal.
David Lang
wood vs pLA/ABS/PETG are vastly different. Many people at the v1Engineering MPCNC forums use 3d printed brackets no problem on routers. On the other hand I have read many more issues with wood made router holders. .The issue has nothing to do inherently with the material it depends on how well it is engineered. that being said a back up like muffler clamps is always a good idea.
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What is the difference between the “lead 2mm” and “lead 8mm” size options on that c beam sliding table link you posted above?
And I understand I’ll need the parts in the next 3 links as well? Just one of each? The belt also has a lot of size options, I’m not sure which.
Thanks for the help and sorry for being dumb about it, but I don’t want to have to order twice from China with the wait times.
Only difference between the “lead 2mm” and “lead 8mm” is the lead of the screw. You want to 8mm lead which equates to 8mm of linear travel per revolution of the lead screw. This will increase the speed of you Z axis by 4 compared to the 2mm lead. You will need the T-nuts and probably corner brackets (although its easier to make wooden brackets). You do not need the timing belt necessarily either, you can do what @Bmwsyc and I have done and mount the original Z axis bracket to the back of your C-Beam.
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Thanks! I don’t remember seeing your bracket fix, can you direct me there? Thanks for the info.
This is my input on the Z axis upgrade that address many concerns here. Full DIY video here; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIhbYlYqe9Y&t=43s&index=2&list=UUXOmukuulDBaPhCKZgfh4kQ
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Where did you find this? I’ve spent a little time looking around and haven’t been able to find a file for this
Looks like @aluminumwelder has the files, since now I can’t seem to find them either. Thought they were posted in the community garden but don’t see them.