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Z-Axis upgrades Consolidation

z-axis

#62

Hey can anyone help me out with what settings in Ground Control need to be changed for the C-beam linked in this thread? Theoretically the thread pitch setting should be the same for all of us ordering the same one? Are there any other settings that need adjustment after that, and where and what should I change it to?

Using the stock Z-axis motor for now, if that makes a difference.


#63

In GC in Maslow Settings it’s the Z-Axis Pitch that needs to be changed.
(The number of mm moved per rotation of the z-axis)

Edit: It should be called lead. The pitch is 2mm in the c-beam linked above, but it has 4 threads, so the lead (the distance it will travel with one rotation) = 8mm.


#64

Thanks! Another question: what are people doing to attach the motor and C-beam? I see the couple that came with the c-beam doesn’t fit the stock Maslow Z-axis motor shaft, and when I put the stock Maslow coupler on the C-beam it didn’t seem like a very solid/even fit. I got it to stay on and turn, but it doesn’t feel like it will hold up great? Am I just overly worrying?

Thanks for all the help!


#65

Can only speak for myself. Stacking ‘Z-Towers’ to unforeseen heights is not the route I’m going.
The higher your Z, the more you will need to go up with the ring on the sled to keep the balance.
My goal is to have all weight as close to the sled as possible. My c-beam is a 150mm(~5.9") giving you a travel of ~70mm(~2.75"). The ‘tooth belt gears’ will need obviously a spacer block of 30mm(~1.18"), so I will end up with a ‘Z-Tower’ of 200mm(~7.87") (if the bit is maxed out in length in the material)/shortest. If Z is up it will be higher…
I will drill and tab the bottom plate to mount the ‘spacer’ and that will be mounted to the sled. If I find long screws I might screw everything in the c-beam. 2 angels at the side (better on the back left/right of the z-motor) only if I feel I need to.


Oh yes, that’s a air-cooled 500W spindle. The reasons are:

  • built for long runs
  • lighter
  • cheaper
  • shorter
  • better RMP control in the lower speeds we need
  • comes with lots of collets to fit any tool you want
  • lower noise

Regards, Gero

Edit (the theory):


#66

You want to order a coupler that fits both sides, or gear it up to get z-speed. Wear and tear will punish you if you don’t.


#67

out of curiosity I taped a motor bracket to the c-beam and used my coupler (because of Bosch-router 8mm that fits the c-beam) and stacked the motor. It will hold up great.


The tricky part in using the Maslow motor brackets is that the long-holes are not exactly centred with the groves on the c-beam. I cut metal strips to slide in and drilled and threaded them off-center and it works fine.


#68

I just drilled and tapped two M3 holes in the solid block, aligned with the Maslow bracket


Working great so far


#69

Thanks for the replies guys! I think I was unclear, although your information was helpful for other reasons.

I was talking about the motor to screw connection, not the motor bracket to C-beam connection. Meaning the cylindrical piece with several Allen screws in it that tightens on both the shaft and and screw end so the motor direct-drives the screw. That part doesn’t seem to fit the screw very tightly/firmly, I tightened the Allen screw on the screw side (“bottom”?) Of the coupler but I think the screw is engaging one of the threads of the c-beam screw at an angle, so it doesn’t feel super secure or straight.


#70

I ended up ordering another coupler with different dimensions when I ordered my C beam. I ordered the stuff from Open Builds and the coupling I ordered was the 5 mm to 8 mm flexible coupling. If I remember right, I had to drill out the motor side just a smidge to fit the Maslow motor shaft.


#71

The original coupler will not fit unless you ordered the one for a 8mm router shaft.
The screw in the centre is meant for a flattened side of a shaft, the c-beam does not have that. The outer screw that goes across the gap is the the one to tighten.


#72

Z axis

I bought one of these slide and adapted it to use on my Router for the Z axis

It works very well, except that the Z axis servo Motor is SLOW…
I’m hoping there might be a Motor Gearbox I can Swap out, to get 10x the Speed.
Right now, It is maxing out at 2.5 Inches per minute.
Even if I program an Feed of F32.0 Z axis hits a Max of 2.5ipm

The Pitch on the Screw is 3/8-12 Acme Thread.
It’s a Double Lead Screw so the Actual Movement per Revolution is 0.1666"
6 Turns Per Inch.

link to my Maslow Photos
https://1drv.ms/f/s!ArPFg5yKGdXipBzgd-2NwAYT2hGK

More on the Z axis
The Slide as it arrives has about 5" of Travel.
The Router in it’s base has about 2 inches of Travel.

My Saw was broke. HA, now how to cut my block ?
So to Cut my Aluminum Block to make the clamp from
I drilled a Series of small holes to create a Perforation and Snaped off the end.

Made up a Hole Pattern for a 3/4em to approximate the 92mm bore.
Position in X and Y, Plunge, Repeat.

After Having it Assembled.
I needed to Leave the Bit Extended 1 3/4 inches

Not a good Set up.

So I cut of the Top of the Base that Clamps the router.
The router base was now, just being used as a Guide Sleeve.
So the Upper portion that Held the Adjusting Screw isn’t needed.
Gained an Inch of Travel…

I miscalculated. Measured that I could cut of 3" from the Z axis Slide.
Yes it was a good Measurement, But I forgot, to Measure from the Mounting Hole for the Clamp.
I measures from the Top of the Slide.
So now my Clamp mounts 1/2 down from the top of the slide.

After it was cut of…
I discovered I had Lost 1/2 of Usable Travel.
So It should have Only been to Cut of 2 1/2 of the Slide.

I just raised the Slide up on the Angle Mount.
I get a good 2" of Z axis, and the Tool Only needs to Stick out 1" from the Collect Nut.


#73

Figured out how to get a picture uploaded.


Project of the Week / Community Gardener for December 12, 2018
#74

WOW! that is amazing


#75

That photo is PROOF THAT GOD EXISTS !!! hahaha…

Just what I needed for my unit… Thanks for sharing !


#76

Don’t over tighten the clamp. It just needs to be snug.
if you Squeeze it too much, it will cause rubbing inside the router…


#77

Does anyone else have play in their C-beam from Ali Express (the common one linked above)?

The play is between the “plate” if you will, that comes with and attached to the C-beam. It’s side to side play, not up and down so much (there might be a small amount of that but definitely not as much as side to side).

As the Maslow moves you can see the whole router and bracket shift around. Can this be tightened somewhere? Shimmed?


#78

Is it like there is play between the c beam and the wheels? There should be eccentric spacers on one set of wheels that can be rotated to take slop out.


#79

I will check and take a couple photos, thanks!


#80

So I tightened all 6 of the screws I could on the c-beam “plate”. Of course, four of them are one size and the two middle ones seem to be a different size. It still has some wiggle and play in it. I’m not sure if I should’ve disassembled more and removed the plate and adjusted something underneath? The two middle screws feel like they are in danger of stripping, and I’m just not sure it’s doing anything. Pics attached, the outside ones I labeled 1-4 and the two inside ones 5+6 for clarity.


#81

See that hex shaped part between the wheel and the plate on the right of image #2? That’s the eccentric spacer. There should be another one on the other side. (2 and 4 on your numbered diagram) You need to remove one of the endplates and slide the carriage out to adjust the eccentric spacer. Note that you do not need to adjust the tightness of the screw to change the eccentric preload. If you over tighten the screw heads, you wheels will not turn properly.

See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLozVt_CjXQ&t=7m20s for an in depth explanation on how to properly adjust the eccentric spacers.

Oh, and you should not over tighten the middle ones (5 and 6) on your image. They should just be 1/4 of a turn past finger tight.