Based off a pipe based pen holder I saw on these forums I drew a sharpie holder ready to be 3D printed. It replaces the motor on the Ridged router. Once I print it up and verify that it works I’ll share the file. It retains the pen and is designed to have downward pressure with rubber bands or stretchy cord.
Top view 
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Neat! I’ll have to print one when I get my maslow. 
Downward pressure is good, but stopping the pen travel at some point so that the z axis can lift it would be desirable as well.
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Agreeded, and it does this. The pen tip goes through but not the entire pen. This allows the pen to be lifted off the surface.
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glad you improved on my design!. I was going to make an STL version, but you beat me to it. I like how you added the side depression so the z axsis can control it!
Thanks for the share!
I printed this and have a lot of slop between the body and the base. I noticed in this review and on a couple other pages that the r2200 is listed as having a non-standard 3 5/8 inch base, or ~92 mm. While apparently standard routers are 3.5 inches or ~89 mm.
The two models you have on thingiverse are 90.5 or 89.5 mm. Based on your recomendation I printed the 89.5 mm version. I should probably have done the 90.5 but I might even need larger.
For others in the future, I would recommend printing the first half inch of the model and testing it, you may discover that there is more slop than expected.
This is great. Especially for repeated calibration tests or debugging. I’ll need to print one up right away as my Maslow kit should come soon. Thanks for the work guys!
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very useful, but remember, different weight means different chain sag, so it’s
good for testing, but you still need to calibrate with the motor you are going
to use to cut.
I highly recommend making a pen-carrier for exactly those uses. Go to the office-supply or art supply store and lay in a supply of straight-shafted gel-based ball-tipped pens (I like 0.4mm ‘Gelly Roll’) . The straight shaft is easy to attach to a holder. Get different colors so you can tell subsequent runs apart. While there, pick up a roll of 24" or 36" ‘butcher paper’ or “sign maker’s paper” or ‘kraft paper’, something to tape on the workarea and mark on.
You can re-calibrate as much as you want without spoiling a sheet of wood, pre-flight a cut see if it will cut true in the part of the workarea you want to use, try different settings to see how they affect the frame’s accuracy.
Keep this in mind when making your holder, make the finished weight match the weight of the router body it replaces.
I was thinking I would put weights in the holes to make it equal to the router weight.
Long term I think I’d have to make a different holder that works with the spindle / z-axis Inhave ordered. But could be a while before I get there. I would like to be able to help with debugging firmware/software issues.
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Looks great! Can you recommend me a good 3D printer for beginner? I’m really interested in buying one but I don’t know which to choose.
creality cr10 is good, or just upload file to 3dhubs and have someone print it for you locally is easy too.
The best one to get is the one that your friend has. That way you can compare notes and raid each other’s spare parts bin when something breaks.
I have a Malyan 200 (aka Monoprice MP Select Mini). It has been fabulous for me. It is supplied pre-assembled and works straight out of the box. One drawback is that the print volume is small at 12x12x12 cm, although I have rarely needed to print anything larger. At the time I bought it most people claimed it was the first 3d printer under $200 that didn’t suck, which is why I bought it and it is (was) totally true. That was a couple of years ago and there’s more choice at that price point now, plus cheaper ones that also don’t suck.
If you are at all interested then buy a cheap one with decent reviews. Once you start using it you’ll quickly realise if it’s good enough or if you need to upgrade it or replace it.
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