Ambient temperature where Maslow located

Got my kit, working on set up slowly. Just wondering if anyone else runs their machine in Arizona or the like where ambient temps in uncooled spaced reaches 100+ F. I’m planning on directing a fan over the aduino and shield but would appreciate hearing other’s experiences. Any other newb advice appreicated.

Welcome to the forum.
Some active cooling is advisable, as the motor driver chips get quite hot if you are cutting near the top of the sheet. We had a few motor shields burn out.
We have some builds with a casing with integrated cpu fans.
My guess is that a fan directed over the shield will do the job well enough, but can’t guarantee that.
Better safe then sorry :slight_smile:
Here it reaches ~ 130 F but I have an AC in the Maslow room and run at max at 86F.

I litterally have my maslow set up in a greenhouse. It’s been 30°C outside for a few weeks now, don’t have a thermometer inside, but it was hot enough to make my butane soldering iron “explode”.
Around around 14-15h, when it gets hottest, my maslow suddenly loses it’s connection, but no permanent damage. I have a huge fan set up that makes the temperature bearable for me.
Next week they predict a heatwave, so 35 and above for a week, let’s hope i don’t melt. We’re not used to those temperatures over here.

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Gawd I would love 35C ~95 F. We are looking at 114-117 in the coming days and it is monsoon season so the humidity is up. I can’t imagine 130 F Gero.

I am getting really sidetracked with all these details, which frame should I build, tension system, custom enclosure for the electronics.

I am thinking maybe I better Build Bar’s bolt together design and work on upgrades from there or I will be stuck in analysis paralysis forever!

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Now that you say it, we need climate adjusted frames that also take humidity into account.

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Please don’t feed my analysis paralysis, lol.:rofl:


You should definently go for some metal top beam i think. The rest of the frame is not unimportant, but if your top beam warps too much due tobtemperature or humidity your accutacy suffers.
I don’t know what the winter temperatures are like, but i would expect that expansion due to heat could be several milimeters, so when it drops 20 degrees you should remeasure the motor distance.

I made my top beam out of a teak beam of 10x5 cm, apperantly it can withstand the greenhouse. When it’s closed on days i don’t use it, the temperature is high enough to explode wd40 can, and break my thermometer thet goes to 55C. But my top beam is still straight, though there isn’t much humidity


I will either go metal or at least a metal strip on the narrow edge as metal is so expensive. May just do a T assembly with another board, I have used that technique with great success. Humidity is not a problem here, it is a dry heat.

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I used unistrut for my top beam. 10’ piece at Lowes for $18.97 and 2 - 10’ 2x4’s would cost $12 (total; so only $7 more for all metal.

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I just had to jb weld my heatsinks on because the thermal tape got too hot and lost all sticky (then the heatsinks fell off). It is 30+ Celsius today though. Might be good to check from time to time.


Well the temp was up today but I managed to build the stand tonight!


Had 119 F on the temp gauge in my truck on the way home from work today, too hot for golf! Made a little progress. I think I went a little overboard on the temp sled when I did the spin test it was perfect!


Maybe you should just round the corners a bit and call it your final sled. :slight_smile: Getting everything dead center is a little tricky.