Calibration cuts not cutting straight

Any examples of this? Pictures?

check this one

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The bungee cord should exert ‘just enough’ tension to keep the router pressed down. Too much and the height adjustment tab has a hard time staying in place. The bungees in my picture are probably too strong, I’m going to switch to some thinner cord.

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I screwed a couple eyelets into the sled and hooked the bungie cord to that. The cord I found was a bit too long so I put a series of knots in it to take up the slack.

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Good idea. The handles do not fit on the router with the ring

Edit: I did notice some inconsistencies in my z as well, so this may solve the problem

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I’m pretty sure I didn’t predrill for the eyelets… just screwed them in by hand. They are pretty secure into the plywood without poking out the bottom.

@BillH you can increase your maximum feed rate in the advanced settings

I’ve increased mine to 800mm/min and you could probably even go higher. Cutting faster actually prolongs the life of the bit.

@george I agree that in your case the bit isn’t the culprit. You aren’t seeing the type of burning in the cut marks that @BillH was

Here’s one of yours:

image

The symptoms are very similar which makes me think that the issue is also related to the sled not sliding freely (as if the bit were not moving through the wood smoothly). Is there anything else which could be adding friction there?

I’ll have a chance to look again this weekend.

The sled has moved freely in the past, it has a glossy finished bottom and a rounded edge. I’ve even sanded down the spoil board around older cuts to prevent any hanging …

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the CG-Z should not shift based on your position on the sheet. It will shift based on the Z position of the router.

you want to have the chain mounting slightly on the high side (top to sheet) and then adjust the motors/top beam to make the chains parallel to the workpiece

Just want to add my experience from the ring.

note that sanding the ring makes it vulnerable to rust (since it’s plain steel)

did we ever find out how out-of-round the rings are? 2mm variation in diameter
seems fairly significant.

We really need to get good ring/45/top kit comparisons, it may be that the next
round should go out with something different than the ring. But we don’t know
until we get test reports

David Lang

P.S. I just attempted cutting the 45 kit parts last night, I can cut a full set
in about 10 min using home depot luan/birch 5mm plywood

I don’t believe @clintloggins removed all of the coating. Given that most of us will keep our Maslows indoors, rust should not be too big a concern.

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@dlang, yes I should have been more specific and thanks for pointing that out @Keith . Remove the texture, not all of the paint. Used 220 grit auto body

Is that with a laser cutter?

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Yes. a local hackerspace has a 95w laser that is able to do common cuts. Once I
cleaned up the file (so it wasn’t cutting circles in 4 passes), it very nicely.
I just need wood that isn’t bowed :slight_smile:

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FYI - Bees wax would be a good protective coat on the ring.

I have a wiki entry on bees wax and metal work here:

https://www.disciplesofcnc.com/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=Site.BeesWax

Thank you

Hey @kodaxx !

I am away from my Maslow until tomorrow, but I will snap a photo of it when I have a chance.

I could really use your advise here. The machine suppose to cut along the red line, but it doesnt. also the corner line should be right angle, but it cuts the round corner like the picture shows. Any suggestion?

I think these are two separate issues. I think the slant is most likely a calibration issue, while the rounded corners are probably resulting from the gcode generation process. Can you post a screen shot of what the preview to be cut looks like in Ground Control?

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the shape being twisted like that indicates that one of the chains has skipped a
tooth, try resetting your chain lengths.

David Lang

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Echoing what Bar said, but more specifically, the square being oversized with rounded corners suggest to me that when the G-code was generated, the CAM software thought your bit was much bigger than what you used. So it moved the sled too far out, trying to avoid cutting into your piece.

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