Calibration cuts not cutting straight

[kodaxx]

@Bee

noticed in these pictures there is no Bungie Cord over the top of the router. People have reported problems getting depth when no Bungie Cord was attached over the top of the router to the handles to assist in pulling the router down to the surface

Any examples of this? Pictures?

[Keith]

check this one

Info on the Rigid Router

My brand new Ridgid router was constantly hanging up about 1/2 way through its travel up and down, no matter how loose the sleeve adjustment was. There is a small pin on the side of the router motor that registers it to the sleeve that bolts to the sled. I found that there was a “bump” in the slot on the sleeve that the pin rides in. I needed to file that bump down to correct the hang-up. If you do not have the right file, take the sleeve to the hardware and ask for a bastard file (do not as…

[blurfl]

@kodaxx

Any examples of this? Pictures?

The bungee cord should exert ‘just enough’ tension to keep the router pressed down. Too much and the height adjustment tab has a hard time staying in place. The bungees in my picture are probably too strong, I’m going to switch to some thinner cord.

[madgrizzle]

I screwed a couple eyelets into the sled and hooked the bungie cord to that. The cord I found was a bit too long so I put a series of knots in it to take up the slack.

[kodaxx]

@madgrizzle

screwed a couple eyelets into the sled and hooked the bungie cord to that. The cord I found was a bit too long so I put a series of knots in it to take up the slack.

Good idea. The handles do not fit on the router with the ring

Edit: I did notice some inconsistencies in my z as well, so this may solve the problem

[madgrizzle]

I’m pretty sure I didn’t predrill for the eyelets… just screwed them in by hand. They are pretty secure into the plywood without poking out the bottom.

[bar]

@BillH you can increase your maximum feed rate in the advanced settings

I’ve increased mine to 800mm/min and you could probably even go higher. Cutting faster actually prolongs the life of the bit.

@george I agree that in your case the bit isn’t the culprit. You aren’t seeing the type of burning in the cut marks that @BillH was

Here’s one of yours:

The symptoms are very similar which makes me think that the issue is also related to the sled not sliding freely (as if the bit were not moving through the wood smoothly). Is there anything else which could be adding friction there?

[george]

I’ll have a chance to look again this weekend.

The sled has moved freely in the past, it has a glossy finished bottom and a rounded edge. I’ve even sanded down the spoil board around older cuts to prevent any hanging …

[dlang]

@Gero

Thanks for the response! I’m late for triangular, so others have more experience.
I hope you don’t mind that I comment anyway. (i’m known for that and proven to be wrong.)
I did notice the long bricks. They have holes, yes, still I’d like to know the weight of each.

@george

I would say bottom

With the L-brakets we had a fixed ‘chain-mounting-point’ and it was easy to balance the sled for all heights, to hang it vertical, or slightly ‘top-to sheet’ angle.
My guess is that you want the same with your ring kit with the sled at the middle of the sheet.
I don’t have the answer for: raise the ring in height or lower the weight of the bricks.

With triangular, the CG-Z (centre of gravity on Z-axis) shifts (from the little i’ve seen myself) depending on how heigh or low on the sheet. Please observe your sled from the side, moving left and right, once for top and bottom and kindly report back if you see something in the line of ‘sled at top/ top friction’ and vice versa or opposite.

the CG-Z should not shift based on your position on the sheet. It will shift based on the Z position of the router.

you want to have the chain mounting slightly on the high side (top to sheet) and then adjust the motors/top beam to make the chains parallel to the workpiece

[clintloggins]

Just want to add my experience from the ring.

Sanding the inner rim of the new ring may help!

Im pretty sure that slight jump was causing the waviness in my cuts. The sled would move a couple of inches then the bearings would fall into position. Nothing to be scared of on this one

[dlang]

note that sanding the ring makes it vulnerable to rust (since it’s plain steel)

did we ever find out how out-of-round the rings are? 2mm variation in diameter
seems fairly significant.

We really need to get good ring/45/top kit comparisons, it may be that the next
round should go out with something different than the ring. But we don’t know
until we get test reports

David Lang

P.S. I just attempted cutting the 45 kit parts last night, I can cut a full set
in about 10 min using home depot luan/birch 5mm plywood

[Keith]

@dlang

note that sanding the ring makes it vulnerable to rust

I don’t believe @clintloggins removed all of the coating. Given that most of us will keep our Maslows indoors, rust should not be too big a concern.

[clintloggins]

@dlang, yes I should have been more specific and thanks for pointing that out @Keith . Remove the texture, not all of the paint. Used 220 grit auto body

3M™ Wetordry™ Sandpaper 03006, Assorted Fine Grit Pack, 3-2/3 inch x 9 inch,...

@dlang

P.S. I just attempted cutting the 45 kit parts last night, I can cut a full set

in about 10 min using home depot luan/birch 5mm plywood

Is that with a laser cutter?

[dlang]

Yes. a local hackerspace has a 95w laser that is able to do common cuts. Once I
cleaned up the file (so it wasn’t cutting circles in 4 passes), it very nicely.
I just need wood that isn’t bowed

[Bee]

FYI - Bees wax would be a good protective coat on the ring.

I have a wiki entry on bees wax and metal work here:

https://www.disciplesofcnc.com/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=Site.BeesWax

Thank you

[Dustcloud]

Hey @kodaxx !

I am away from my Maslow until tomorrow, but I will snap a photo of it when I have a chance.

[Paulzc001]

I could really use your advise here. The machine suppose to cut along the red line, but it doesnt. also the corner line should be right angle, but it cuts the round corner like the picture shows. Any suggestion?

[bar]

I think these are two separate issues. I think the slant is most likely a calibration issue, while the rounded corners are probably resulting from the gcode generation process. Can you post a screen shot of what the preview to be cut looks like in Ground Control?

[dlang]

the shape being twisted like that indicates that one of the chains has skipped a
tooth, try resetting your chain lengths.

David Lang

[jwolter]

Echoing what Bar said, but more specifically, the square being oversized with rounded corners suggest to me that when the G-code was generated, the CAM software thought your bit was much bigger than what you used. So it moved the sled too far out, trying to avoid cutting into your piece.