I would guess even though ring, it sounds like how centered my router is on my sled versus the same router mounted in the metal maslow setup correct? Is that a fair statement?
and even with that I would assume the rest of Maslow is dialed in, we are just talking about the home starting point for a cut that could be a few MM off correct? A cut, to itself I would suppose that when swapping sleds, if both rings, just the starting point of Home for that cut could be off a few MM, but once started it would be as accurate to itself as it was with the original sled. Is that maybe a more fair statement? ie. once the first plunge goes into the wood, after running the main calibration and holey, 4 inches is truly 4 inches but maybe that starting Home point is only off a few MMâŚwhich I am fine with that if this is true when swapping out the sledsâŚ
Hey gang. I have been working on polishing the aluminum for the meticulous-Z setup by metal Maslow. I had both clamps for the router, the rigid and the makita. Do you have a preference which router I use for best performance? I was going to use the Makita mainly because it would allow me to leave the sled with the Rigid router completely intactâŚand if both are ring setup, in a way have a backup sled ready to go based on Orobâs comments earlier. Now that I understand the settings for the Z are very important, IF I decided to use, or you recommend the Makita, do you know the settings I would need to change and what the values should be set to? I hate to input wrong values (like I did once before) and mess up all the correct changes made thus far. Thanks!!
I am sure @Orob can correct me on this, but if you are moving over to the metal sled and the Z-axis set up is has, then you would need to look at the steps you used to calibrate the Z-axis on your current Ridgid sled. If you are using the same Z-motor, that calibration âshouldâ be the same, and you would only need to worry about the Z-axis pitch. This is where I would do the measurement test: take a fixed point on the Z carriage, command it to move âXâ mm (5 mm) and measure how far it actually moved. if it moved 5 mm, then the pitch you have in WC is good, if it isnât, I use this calculation that I found from the Meticulous Z post:
You can also search the forums for the Metal Maslow pitch change and go from there as well. I know every system is different, so that is why I use the error calculation and measurement tests I listed. It just helps me to dial in my machine to be what I want it to be.
Good luck!
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Thanks you this is extremely helpful!! I think may switch routers, well âcouldâ switch routers if anyone has a preference on one of the other. The pitchâŚI think that may be the â24â I was using which was wrong for this setup, but now think it may be right for the sled building now in free time. I remember searching the forum, found this metal Maslow section, and I think I got confused with the metal Maslow 10x faster motor versus the pitch of screws of that setup. Why I inadvertently changed my pitch from -3.17 for the rigid to â-24â. The motor I have is a spare (bought for this sled build last year) so the encoder number âI thinkâ would be the same. It would be the pitch of those screw bars mounted to the Maslow sled which absolutely would need change. Your right the pitch for sure, the motor is same so the encoder is the same, and it should not matter which router I use because the Z axis motor is the same. Correct? More so just pitch of screws changes. Also will try that test when this is built, just to confirm the numbers input were correct, thanks for that!!
@Virgs1 Correct, the router shouldnât matter as it pertains to the Z-axis movement as that is controlled by the motor and the lead screw. The only difference you would have between routers is the cutting ability (variable RPM (and the range it has) or not, and then what bits it can handle (1/2" 1/4" 1/8â shank bits, etc), motor horse power and the cutting load affects it). If it is the same motor, then yes, so the encoder is the same and that wouldnât need to be changed. Absolutely you would need to figure out the pitch to ensure you are getting the correct travel distance for your cutting depth similar to the issues you were having when you first started.
Rick
Samba is a linux implementation of the Windows file sharing protocol. It is
possible to have linux â linux communication using the windows protocol, but
there are some extra hoops to jump through to do so.
David Lang
no, itâs not that simple, if the calibration is off, the error isnât an absolute
amount, itâs a matter of curves, the error will be different in different places
on the workpiece.
if you change the sled, you can try cutting without recalibrating, and if the
result is accurate enough for your needs, thatâs fine. If not, recalibrate.
David Lang
and make sure that the router is centered on the sled. different routers are
different diameters and even a small difference matters.
David Lang
or more precisely, centered on your linkage/rings (the exact shape of the sled
doesnât matter as much)
David Lang
Thanks Rick! I think what I may do is turn both in the low setting and see which one is less annoying a soundâŚas my sons bedroom is above garage. Will also check to make sure both cans handle same bits, which I think they could, but have to check the collets
Thanks for this, itâs super helpful!!!
Excellent info thanks David!! At this point unless Ant figures it out, running with WinSCP or move through WebControl for now. I was so buried with work today could get to running test part while I worked in garage. Too many calls. Like to in a few hours though, we will see.
Thanks for all that David! So it does matter or at least could matterâŚ
I think with the Webcotnrol.Json file issue keep having, maybe best to do a full recalibration. Then just save backups of each file. Hate to recalibrate but itâs not like I am deep into cutting things I need right away. Will think about all this, but may consider the re-cal. I think the sled from metal Maslow has pre-drilled holes for everything so I donât think much control of âwhereâ or how accurate the ring and router on Z axis are mounted. My wood sled, I was anal with getting that exactly centered! This sled relying on mounting holes and pre-drilled to put together. Just to be safe based on that, more leaning to the recalibrationâŚthanks David!!! Great info
wiht the metalmaslow sled, you need to make sure the router is centered in the
holder, if you have one thatâs smaller, donât just push it to one side and have
spacers on the other side.
David Lang
different bits can make a huge difference in the noise level as well.
David Lang
Right!! I didnât mention this as I was looking at the Metal Maslow, and I thought I saw they have the clamp premade for the Makita that already has the correct offset needed to center that on the sled. I want to say they have 2 clamps: 1 for Ridgid, and one for Makita, and each of those clamps are made to go on the stock Z-axis they sell for the sled, lining them up to be centered. I may be mistaken as it was a while ago that I was looking. I also was under the impression that @Virgs1 was referencing that he got the clamp from Metal Maslow for the Makita. If this is wrong, then my apologies for not mentioning the router being centered on the sled as well. Thanks David! I donât want to lead anyone astray on this!
Rick
Ok got it thanks David! Makes sense. Center it perfectly.
Ok that I was not aware of at all. I knew they cut different, for me upcut versus downcut as mainly I will one of the 2 until I get into making more
Details projects. I may swap out the one in there just to see the difference. Thanks dlang
Nope your correct, there are 2 different clamps. When I go to build i will
Make sure centered as needed to see how itâs offset.
Actually when able to head downstairs I am going to look at the clamps and check for offset. Curious now as never thought of that. Thanks Rick!