So went through forum to see if anyone else had the same issues and reading a few posts on accuracy I decided to disassemble my entire machine and reassemble to spot on (tape measure accuracy) I’m getting 1/4" drop across 10" at 12 or so inches off the ends. right side drops down more on the right than the left, the left side drops 1/4" more on the left than the right. It is in the upper corners and gets better farther down the sheet. the Y cuts are pretty good. but it the x cuts giving me issues.
Windows 10 Makerverse most current version. on a new m2 maslow. 1/4" bit Thank you for the help.
maybe it is time to try the beta makerverse version and do the holey calibration on it. Makes a HUGE difference.
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More info please 
A noob wiki?
you know how much I like doing those… I think after disassembling the machine and trying really hard to get things lined up, that passes the rigor in my mind to beta test the newer software and @zaneclaes has been looking for more feedback…
The process is pretty simple, but not necessarily easy. I would recommend doing a couple things before you start:
- mark the center of your work space with a pencil or a drill hole
- move the sled to the exact center with the bit over that part
- know the distance from motor to motor, 8:00 to 4:00 ($83 - in mm)
- know the distance from the work piece to your motor height
(motor height work space offset - $84 - in mm) - know the work dimensions in mm
You will download some software, then you will start it, it will update, then you will have to “add” your machine. should be easy, you’ve likely done it already. The calibration will be different.
There are 2 parts:
- Updating the arduino Due with new firmware (get it here). Flash it with arduino IDE you can download for windows. Make sure you install the arduino 32 library that has the arduino due programming port selected as the board.
- Download Makerverse here and when you install and run it the first time, check the box to enable prereleases.
Please review the page on the github site here (scroll down past file list) to be familiar with the calibration process… just kidding. I looked and there is nothing on calibration in the documentation and I was going to help with it, so this is my first draft. Lets see how well you can follow it. You can try it out and tell me how bad the doc sucks so I can fix it and then we all win.
so in windows, you will download the file from the link above and grab the file for windows highlighted above and click on it. It will extract it in its own folder after you give it permission:
click on more info
then click on run anyway
It will install:
Once installed it will run and should show up in your default web browser:
The home page:
the settings page:
- on the home page
A. Select your Due on whatever port it is available
B. Select 38400 as the baud rate
C. click connect (do NOT check the box for hardware flow control - the main page should open and you will see the work space and your system should go immediately to calibration, but it may not. if it is not connected say the second time you open it, to establish connection, if the connect button is blue, click it:
If you see a red close button, then you are connected.
If it does not, then click the bullseye “calibrate” button highlighted above.
- Calibration should look like this:
A. Enter your ring radius
B. Enter your Chain configuration (off bottom for bungee / spring ----- off top for dangling weights)
C. Press NEXT STEP and it will save the values.
D. Enter your stock width (2438.4 is the default. My system is 4’x4’, so different)
E. Enter your stock height
F. Press NEXT STEP
and walk through the details of each step. I’m not going to recalibrate my system for this discussion, but the calibration part where you do the holes is the part where you measure from the edge of your stock in mm to the center of your drilled hole with a 1/8" bit. do it 3x and each time it will get better. I’m at 1.8 mm right now. This will fix your 1/4" offset from each side you were seeing. Good luck!!
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Love it, thanks for the write-up Orob. Definitely looking for more feedback on the beta! I think/hope it’s close to prime time…
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think i understand, thank you i’ll get back with effect.
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nice write up!
Awesome write up. Got the newest beta of makerverse installed flashed the newest due image got it calibrated. Ran out of time today. attempt a cut tomorrow. only issue i ran into was on the edge calibration before you calibrate as your entering the measurements in the bottom 3 move buttons or slightly off. the move for the center lower is almost completely under the move center button and the outside buttons are there but the place to push is at the bottom edge of the button. like a line width thick. can use it with a little fiddling. After i chose the calibrate button things shifted slightly so it looks and acts correctly. Getting pretty excited to get this thing making some cool stuff. thank you very much for your time and energy on this project. you all do an exceptional job at working with people to get there stuff setup. Thanks again! goodnight and ill post another reply after a cut and confirm that mr. maslow is ready
ps i will be fine tuning tomorrow with the precision calibration. give it everything i can to work like desired.
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Is this only true when using the DUE Controller or also for the older controller(s)? Then, does the makerverse software support a linkage kit?
Last but not least i do find the DUE somewhat expensive when you compared to the openbuilds blackbox, for example: BlackBox Motion Control System | OpenBuilds
Makerverse is being tested with both new and old and I agree that the price jump for a faster processor means essentially nothing for machine performance.
With the mega you have other software options that work, but with the due, that is the only option and the calibration on the new versions is much better. The linkage kit has a few settings that are different, but the software doesn’t know the difference.
I did go again to the M2 website and found a footnote saying “not tested with linkage kit yet”. So i guess its waiting time… Ive tried to install the makerverse software yesterday from source on my Raspbian buster and ended up in “library version hell”.
Then my heart is looking for a tradiotionel table top 8x4 using the OpenBuilds BlackBox and a customsetup. I think thats possible for around 5000 USD. I really need higher feed rates and better precision on the long run.
I had a linkage kit on an arduino due running makerverse and it worked fine. You just have to change the sled rotation radius from the ring radius of 139.1 to the linkage radius $90=193.675. It works fine after that change.
If you install the makerverse, you need to clone the github repository, then go into the makerverse/bin folder run ./launch. It should do the rest. If you don’t have docker installed, you will need to do that, but the github docs are up to date on how to do it. If you are trying to set up a node development system, you can get stuck in the build process if you have a rpi 3B without enough ram memory.
In the shorter run, maybe a lowrider would work for you. In the near term, keep trying to get maslow to work. I think you are most of the way there.