Fellow Maslowians (found that term when scouring the forums for my issue, lol). So I’ve got my default frame assembled, have my setup calibrated, worked out the kinks in my software workflow, but am having issues with the sled raising from the workpiece when making vertical cuts.
I know that the chains should be parallel to the workpiece, so I adjusted the height of my ring as much/high as I could, but the chains still are angled in/down toward the workpiece, so I THINK I need to raise the ring more to get the proper angle. Then I see in other posts that you can move the motors back to get the proper angle, would this work? Otherwise I will have to add in spacers to the L brackets to get my ring higher. Would love any insight anyone has!
Also, I’ve seen the picture showing how the sled should hang if you pull the chains away from the work area
Is it picture 4 that I am shooting for? So when I hold the sled away from the workpiece, the sled should hang parallel to it? If so, what do I adjust? The ring height? Position of the bricks (would sliding them in and out of the bracket change that angle)? I’m at the point now where I have to apply pressure on the lower ring brackets while it cuts to keep things on there 
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Can you send a picture of your setup? Really, we just like to see pictures.
Balance the sled first, so when you grab the chains near the sled and pull gently outwards on the sled it maintains the same angle as the workpiece, so when you ease the outward pull, the bottom engages only slightly first.
Actually if your bottom moves out, the ring has to be lowered towards the sled. You have raised it too high.
Then you adjust the motors, or beam so the chain is parallel to the workpiece.
Edit: 4 is what you are shooting for. Sliding the bricks in and out would probably have negligible affect.
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Thanks kayaker37, I was at work when I posted, I woulda posted pics then. Here are some pics:
I’ll try balancing the sled now. So if it doesn’t hand as shown in pic 4 I adjust ring height?
Yes. Is that the standard frame, built per specs?
I have a nonstandard frame, and my chains were set to allow for thicker stock, plus the waste board, and backboard. So your kickers (I think they are called) that support the workpiece stick out more, to allow just that. If you are cutting thin stock, you could use thicker foam as a wasteboard (I have to pick some up yet), and that would allow your chains to go closer to parallel.
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Makes TOTAL sense, thanks kayaker37. Yep, I started with the stock frame, and I’m cutting 1/8" hardboard, so its pretty thin. Ill add something in between to bring the workarea out and get the chains parallel. Thanks again!
