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Indi the Dingo Bitch Circumnavigates the Globe


Slow as always

Back in the exciting early 80s Mrs Moose and I purchased and worked on a Q2 kit for a couple years, but the project fizzled out after a move and several kids and languishes incomplete in several outbuildings.

The Q200, and it’s tricycle gear version the Tri-Q, used a Continental O-200 100hp engine. The Cessna 150 used the same engine. It seems unlikely that a Tri-Q would qualify as a powered glider


All good points. There must be any number of languishing kits and the Tri-Q Doesn’t qualify as Glider. At least the short wing option. A long wing has been built but the specs are hard to find. There is a biplane glider which is basically the Heath parasol with an extra wing which looks more like a standard wing plane because there is more wing with less width like the Q2. Reprints of the Flyers and Gliders Magazine, where the plans first appeared, are being made by the EAA. I’ve purchased the 1930 and 1932 editions. I have also purchase the Tri-Q plans.
Now seems like the perfect time for an update. The reason why I’m quiet is because i’ve been harassing the human pet to 3D render the Maupin Windrose self launching Glider for conversion to G-Code. I have the plans for this great glider. It has a Maximum Glide ratio of 38 to 1. It can glide 19 to 38 miles per mile climbed at a maximum speed of 120 mph. That’s the long wing version, the shorter wing version will do less distance gliding. The Maupin Windrose has some serious touring skills. I appreciate the input Moose. I’ll add a link to more details later.


Sorry Mooselake, I’m very late posting this link. It takes a lot of biting to get your human pet to do the 3D rending of a Windrose. He’s almost finished the rendering though. Here’s the promised link, . Better late than never.
Chow for now i’m off to chase some birds, balls and rabbits.


Kit is on the way. What router does my human pet need to get that is most suited for the maslowcnc.


The big issues with recommending routers is that 1) there are a number of options out there, and 2) not all of them are available everywhere.

Here are some links:

(Edit: just copied the tested router list from the old wiki to the new and updated the link)

Sorry for the slow reply. Just got back on the forums after a long absence.


It’s great that you replied. I hope your absence was not due to a personal crisis. The kit has arrive.

I found the list of recommended routers but for one reason or another they were not for me.

The caravan (I think the American readers would know this as a travel trailer) for the mill has power But it’s 3 inches too low to fit the frame at it’s given angle of tilt. So i’ll tilt it more from the original design.
I’ve redesign the frame to look more like the Mark II frame and to use metric measurements. It’s a fusion of the original, the mark II and it’s using Din Rails and v guide bearings for the sled which is from another Idea to give it less play and more accuracy.
The din rails and bearings are on the way.
I get the rest of the frame’s parts from the hardware on Monday or Tuesday.
I’m expecting some issues with it but I’ve selected a Ryobi 1600 watt router, with a 1/4 and 1/2 inch collet and 1/4 and 1/2 inch bits. The first issue is that you have to hold down the switch. I’m thinking zip ties might be OK for that. The second issue might be the plunge depth but there are collet extension bars available.


don’t do that, it will drastically increase the amount of friction between the
sled and the workpiece, and also reduce the amount of force from gravity
available to move the sled down the frame.

shorten the legs of the frame instead. As long as you have room for the sled to
clear the floor you are in good shape.

David Lang

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That’s what this garden is all about, dlang. That one was an obvious overlook on my part. You can’t expect too much from a dingo.


No, no personal crisis. I got into this community because of a high school robotics team and their competition season started in January. So I had to drop some activities to give them my full attention. Competition’s done. Team learned a lot (which in this context is more important than winning). Now I’m back.

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it’s only obvious in hindsight. Bar made a similar mistake when we were
designing the new frame, he didn’t quite follow the instructions I created and
ended up with a frame tilted back around 20 degrees and it didn’t work at all.

David Lang


David, I saw a gear issue post and I’m wondering why we can’t buy the kit with the upgraded gears already to go. I’m also a little concerned that the power unit may be wrong for a 240 volt electrical grid. The Australian power grid is 240 volts. I’ll ask makermadecnc before I plug it in.


like most power supplies today, the one shipped with the maslow handles 240v
without a problem.

the motors have to be ordered in minimum quantities of over 1000 at a time, so
getting new ones with new gears in them takes time (and selling out the old
stock). It takes a special order to get the motors with the new gears (and there
was a post from someone who broke a motor with the new gears, the next gear in
the gear-chain failed). Check with the people you got the kit from to see if
they special ordered the motors with the upgraded gears.

David Lang

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That’s a comfort David. You are a wealth of knowledge. If the new sled and frame system works out, i’ll post my sketchup files here, for people to download if they are interest,
I have noticed that the legs will be lowered if they are made to sit flat because the original design has the frame standing up on the corners of the 2x4s.


When we had the massive (>1000 post) thread on the frame redesign, we had the
frame lower, but when Bar documented the ‘official’ frame, he made it a bit
taller than what I had listed.

unless you have a skirt on the bottom, you are going to have trouble cutting
near the bottom of the frame anyway.

David Lang

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That’s something they do all the time at my job. Hey, something broke, but they drilled holes in it, why would the guy who made this machine do that, we need to replace this with an adamantium one. A month later something that costs 10x as much breaks in an impossible to get to place and they complain to the producer.

Plastic gears are there to break, they are weak for a reason.


One of my additions on my Sketchup redesign includes a 10 foot ledge at the bottom of the frame for a Din Rail to go on to.
Is there an exchange program where the unused pieces from the kit can be sent back for a discounted upgrade because I do wish to avoid damaging parts? Paying for parts that I don’t want, seems counter intuitive to me.
So what parts should I get upfront to avoid damage other parts later on?
Is there a down side to using mdf instead of the plywood 4x8s?


The Bolt together frame, in the caravan, (travel Trailer) is too snug after it has been lowered at the feet. If i drop the top beam down two inches, I can fit the motors to the top. Is that good solution or will that cause problems for me?


put your dimensions in the preadsheet andsee what the results look like

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The dimensions look fine but I was wondering if it would still work mechanically, if I re-positioned the top beam two inches lower. I haven’t discovered a spread sheet yet. The frame has already been constructed but the ceiling is touching the top of the beam and there is no room for the motors to be place on top of it.


I think this (below) is the most current version of the spreadsheet. The thread that contains it is a good read if you are trying to understand what changes to the geometry will do to your accuracy.

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