What is the Diameter of the FIxed base on the Rigid Router,
and
What is the fixed base depth of cut?
I am making a comparison to what you recommend to other routers.
Thank you in advance…
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Per the manual the depth of cut is 2 inches. The diameter of the base is 6 inches with the sub base attached,
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Ok, next question. When you install the Rigid Router into the base, I see there is a clamp on the back side to lock it in. How does the Z-axis work when the clamp is closed about the router? Do you loosen the clamp so it doesn’t squeeze too tightly against the router?
I ask, because my router also has a clamp on it, and it says the clamp must be open to set the depth of the cut, and closed during operation. What is the consensus of the group?
No such thing as a stupid question unless it is asked by me…
You loosen up the nut to reduce the tension, but you don’t leave it unclasped.
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That is kind of what I figured. Thanks
That’s the idea. The router body needs to be clean and smooth, and it doesn’t hurt to wax it as well. You want the clamp to be as snug as possible without preventing the base from moving, a touchy adjustment. Just about to bind, then back off a micro-scosh.
Remember,we are usingthe router in ways that they never imagined when they were
writing the instructions. They would also scream at removing knobs and attaching
motors.
Thank you, I didn’t realize this. I’ve just been leaving mine unclasped.
My brand new Ridgid router was constantly hanging up about 1/2 way through its travel up and down, no matter how loose the sleeve adjustment was. There is a small pin on the side of the router motor that registers it to the sleeve that bolts to the sled. I found that there was a “bump” in the slot on the sleeve that the pin rides in. I needed to file that bump down to correct the hang-up. If you do not have the right file, take the sleeve to the hardware and ask for a bastard file (do not ask me where that name came from). They come in various sizes, and there is one whose edge fits that slot perfectly. They cost $3 or $4, and are handy to have around in the shop. A few strokes with that file, and the bump is gone, and the Z axis works well. Also, get a short bungee to reduce the slop on the Up-Down motion, and help the router push the bit down.
On my set-up, I can put the bungee hooks on the ends of the ring and secured the bungee with a very short screw on the top of the router. Have not seen any interference with the chain rollers yet.
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