As the inaugural project for my new youtube channel I decided to make a sign for my workshop.
8mm ply, cut in two passes, backed with vinyl floorboards to make the lettering stand out.
The complete build is documented here: https://youtu.be/E0HFE6o0aRo
I think it would look better with the middle of the “o” put back.
Love it, about to watch the video!
I found fonts that open to center so you don’t lose the middle. http://forum.make-the-cut.com/discussion/34445/font-to-cut-without-losing-the-middles-of-the-letters
Looks like that was intentional and part of the look for his logo (missing the center “O” portion). I liked the magical vacuum at the end… 
I am not by any means saying the way you did it is wrong. I love the way you did the sign. I was just providing info if anyone asked. I also subscribed to your channel. Number 2 subscriber. I look forward to more work from you.
Thank you guys, love your comments!
Indeed, it’s meant to be a feature, not a bug 
You’ll see - it’ll lend itself to some nifty logo placement
Great video, lookforward to more. I noticed you held the router as it passed over the lower half of the oval cuts, what is the reason for this please?
When the sled gets close to an edge where it is not supported, it has the tendency to tilt or lift off the material as it tips to that side. You can nurse it along like he did or put a piece of material the same thickness on that edge so the sled is supported more.
@Jetstar that’s exactly what happened. I did not have any scrap material so I had to help it along.
Thank you @Jayster for the explanation!
Lovely sign. Two questions, though.
@jwolter haha, yeah that’s another lesson in the duality of life… Yin and Yang, Black and White, Simon and Uowis, ya see?
If he (or she, come to think of it) ever turns up, I’ll be sure to drill another mounting hole!
Nice little project. Is it a feature that it leaves little bits joined so that it doesn’t all fall apart or do you programme that in? Was looking at buying a good fret saw for exactly this sort of work but this maybe the way to go.
Thanks!
The holding tabs, as they are called, are defined in the CAM software. You can define their position and size depending on the requirements of your workpiece.
That would make sense, many thanks. For what it’s worth I think your design is spot on.
Thank you Sir! 
When I put tabs on my sled in makercam it didn’t leave me tabs at cut. Also the one project I was able to design in makercam and cut, the tabs would not appear when I added them. I have been shooting brads into the workpiece but before I do something fancy ( or run too much risk of cutting a nail) I have to figure out the issue.
Make sure you double the width of the tab. If you are using .25 bit, tab width should be .5. I usually make the height of the tab equal to the depth of each bit pass.
In makercam you have to select the outside line AND the operation line that goes with it for tabs to show up. Left click and hold, drag the selection box over the line and its operation, now add tabs to selected.
I’ve been trying to place every tab as .5 in (.25 in bit) and .25 in hight, depth whatever it is listed as. My passes were ridiculously shallow ( I learned at cut that default wouldn’t be acceptable). Do you think this could have something to do with it?
I also learned that selecting multiple lines and making them “one” profile was a mistake. The z-axis in, out, move, z-axis in, out… All for shallow passes. I learned that I need to take the time in the design process so that my small part doesn’t rob me of a significant portion of my evening!
I think I follow the operation line explanation.
Thanks!
