I have the Maker Made M2, which comes with a 71mm router clamp, and I have a 106.7mm router motor body that I want to use. Initially I was thinking about just manufacturing a wooden clamp, but wasn’t sure if that just wouldn’t do / be robust enough…
Has anyone by any chance had a look at something similar - how did you solve it? Any ideas on what I should use?
I had a friend make a router mount of of oak, he had it split along the gain and
the router went flying. Making it out of food quality plywood should be a
reasonable option.
3/4 pine ply that I had laying around. Zoom in and you can see it in the pic below. It’s been working well so far. I think my 3D printed (came with my used machine) one failed due to the lack of appropriate infill and perimeter wall.
I have a second 3d printed cnc. It is possible to make good 3d parts for the z axis, but you must use 45+% infill and make sure your layer to layer adhesion is good. It is all made from pla for rigidity and it shares the Maslow router and cuts faster than the Maslow, but it is much smaller setup. This was made for the Makita palm router and works with the newer Bauer palm router recently purchased. There are several 3dp mounts on this forum and I’ve always been skeptical of them until I built this other system. Printing a mount for a router the size you are using will take some careful design and likely a day to print, but you can do it and it will work.
I also made a plywood mount for an early Maslow sled using a 3.5" Hitachi router ( very heavy) out of 3/4 ply that worked well before I got my current metal Maslow setup.
@Orob@custard@TimS I had to reprint my router clamp last night. I use @ShadyG’s router clamp under the Meticulous Z category (The Meticulous Z-Axis - #615 by ShadyG). I initially printed it in PETG, .28 layer height, 40% Cubic infill, .4 nozzle (The Meticulous Z-Axis - #707 by c00nphrog). I think over the last year and a half of use and the heat we had this summer, the PETG broke down, and the the infill percentage caused it to start failing. I reprinted last night in PLA+, .6 layer height (.8 nozzle), 70% Cubic infill (IIRC), 3 perimeter walls. Was estimated to take 7.5 hours, not sure how long it actually did as I started it and then went to bed. Woke up this morning and it was finished. Looked pretty good, and felt pretty strong. I’ll get it installed in the next couple of days. I am sure you can come up with one that will fit your size router.
I would love to see a photo of that clamp. I’ve never printed with anything other than a 0.4 nozzle, but the strength and speed are supposed to be much better with the larger nozzle.
I just pulled it off the bed this morning. Looked pretty good from my quick glance. I’ll grab some photos later today when I get home from work and post them.
@Orob Yes, @ShadyG made it for his Rigid router, however, it is the common size for the larger (regular, I guess) router bodies (maybe the 71 mm bodies the OP spoke of), so it works for my Skil router, and I want to say it fit the Ryobi too! Denfinitely too large for the Makita/Bauer Palm router. Though if you are handy with 3D Modeling, I am sure you could take the .stl files and adjust them to whatever size is needed. @ShadyG may even have the original design files that can be manipulated?
And back on the sled…@custard, my apologies for hijacking your post. I hope some of this has been informing to you, and maybe some direction/ideas to go from!!
you could 3d print (spiral vase) a big letter-C shape with flanges around the outside of the opening and the gap is like 1cm or so, and the inner diameter is a bit less than 10.6cm, and the spiral is like the outline of the letter C so it goes up one side and back down the other, so the internal area inside the vase is like the thickness of the letter C if that makes sense.
Then you could fill it with two part epoxy and cotton thread (that you do sewing with) and pieces of material like snips of cotton and nylon clothing, that you put down, like paper mache but using cotton and two part expoy resin. Then you drill holes into the flanges and nuts and bolts tighten it. The inner diameter is a bit smaller than the 10.6, so it has to bend apart to fit the router, so it is already tight, then the nuts and bolts locks it super tight.
And if I was able to melt aluminum, you could put that vase into a bucket, surround it with plaster, let the plaster cure, then pour molten aluminium into it to make a metal one instead.
Looks great, I started with PLA but the heat and stress was too much. I switched to ABS and it has been no problems since. I built an enclosure for my printer and let it get good and warmed up before I print just the heat generated by the printer and power supply are enough fo mine. Good luck good job.