Well this post is probably in wrong spot but it covers a few areas. I took Orobs advice and moved motors to max (1855mm). Had major trouble getting firmware to load and discovered that I was not in fact properly unzipping download (saw another post suggesting this) Not having used a PC for about ten years it is a relearning curve.
Tried to use the automatic chain length setup via Ground Control but chain kept jumping off when tensioned. Ended up inputting manually. Anyway have managed to get it running!
Ok well image seemed to work. As I have smaller top bar, I have overlapped the slack chain and run in conduit channel to separate. Will install another for lower chain. I was concerned about chain movement but I see the machine is very slow (default speed) so my fears appear unfounded. Hours of fun to come.
OK moving on. Found the section on ‘setting’s’ which I did not see mention in set up. Sled was merrily heading for a 12’ sheet corner instead of 4’. Corrected.
Ran the test cut pattern. The diagram in Ground Control seems to show cuts right in the corners. On my 4’ (1219.2mm) sheet the distance between cuts was 27.953" (710 mm) ( I have not got router installed yet so marked with pencil). Would this distance seem correct?
Note sled did not return to centre but offset matches variation of ‘cuts’ from edges (about 1" out) I guess I will have to go back to set up and run calibration again.
This looks right. I just did my 4x4 setup and the center spot when finished shifted. Each time you do it, the center will change and the deviation will decrease.
Rechecked chain lengths as one was longer. I did hear a ‘bang’ early in the setup so may have jumped a tooth. Added extra weight (4kg on each) and reduced tendency to wrap.
Also my bad, my back board was not centred so measuring from the edge was incorrect.
Will run some more calibrations when I get my spindle mounted (next week maybe)
On the slack chain side? So in the bottles? If so, the first setup to counter the backslash of the motors from the slack side. 2kg is enough for me on a ~9kg sled, but the weight is always on the sled side. Chains parallel feeding to the the sprocket on both sides can be achieved with chain guides or just making them parallel. Interesting setup!
Hi
Went from 2kg to 4kg as the slack side was sagging. I read on of the posts from the gurus which said weight should be about the same as minimum tension. (If I read it right). My sled will be around 10kg. I bought the EastBay kit which has a bolt and bush guide on the slack side. I modified slightly to keep chain aligned.
If you “twist” the sprocket ‘left/right’ you can feel the ‘backlash’. You what it to be either on the sled side permanently, or in your approach perhaps on the slack side? 2kg on the slack side is good for me to keep my chains up and the weight on the sled. The worst you can up with is a ‘balanced’ chain system as the backlash will kick in depending on the positions of the sled on the sheet.
Not much progress this week as still waiting for Z axis slide. Motors/gears backlash loaded toward sled even though sled is not at full weight yet. Given my overlap system adding some friction and the effective counterweight load halved by pulley, I feel 4kg is OK.
Ok, did first cut of test pattern. This maybe should be in one of the calibration threads but they are a bit high level for me. Prior to doing the test pattern, I had the sled set to physical centre of backboard and set as home. It had good repeatability - ie each time I drove it away, pressing home would return it accurately. After cutting the test pattern it returned to a slightly new home. I can probably live with that as I may redefine for different cuts.
one confusing thing is Z axis seeming to decide home and zero are the same. working on it
Thanks Metalmaslow. Can’t take too much credit as it is store bought. At the moment I feel all dressed up and nowhere to go. Seeing a lot of posts about migrating to webcontrol from Ground control. How necessary is that?
Next issue is how to get dxf or svg files to gcode. I am reading that I need a CAD/CAM program?
Seeing a lot of posts about migrating to webcontrol from Ground control. How necessary is that?
GroundControl is not getting any development on it. the underlying libraries
broke around the beginning of last year and no releases have been done since.
if it works for you and the accuracy is good enough, you can use it.
WebControl supports holey calibration, which seems to have better results than
the older calibration option and is being maintained/updated.
so in the long run, you will end up moving to WebControl unless someone figures
out how to get GC to build again with current libraries, but you don’t have to
do it immediately.
Next issue is how to get dxf or svg files to gcode. I am reading that I need a CAD/CAM program?
CAD is to create the drawing, if you already have dxf/svg in the correct scale,
you have done the CAD portion (you may opt to import it into a CAD program to
tweak it, but fundamentally you have done the CAD step)
CAM takes the drawing and turns it into gcode (things like what is your cutter
dimension, which side of the line to cut on, how fast, how deep, how many
passes, etc)
Thanks dlang. Very impressed with the active engagement with the forum. Looked at the youtube guide to installing webcontrol and my eyes started glazing over as I have been out of the PC world for 10 years. Will play with GC for a while.
Had figured out the CAD/CAM angle but just had to ask the dumb questions. Currently downloading Fusion 360 (I know it is a big program) to initially import some (CAD) files to convert (CAM)
Been a while! I’m glad there are still others building smaller/different frames.
It’s been over a year and I would guess I’ve donee 1,00+ hours of cutting - have not needed to recalibrate and am still using good old GC. Here’s a few things which stick out reading the rest of the above thread.
Single-flute upcut bits are awesome!
One of the biggest things I think that have helped me remain accurate is my top bar setup, specifically the way I supported my top bar
Running at the lowest RPMs, for me 11,000, is wise - it saves your bits
If your frame is as square as possible, your floor may not be level but just make sure your top bar is always level
Might sound like dumb stuff, but has worked for me.
@Alanc for setup, I found these directions invaluable for the calibration (I use the bolt together frame). I like GC and continue to use it, the way I got it to work was to force my computer to stay on Python version 2.7. This may help you - not sure - I’m not on Windows and the laptop I use is likely 14+ years old.
All in all, still loving my Maslow and eyeing the M2 with a little envy (I’m Bosh 1200 and the springs are starting to go).
