Is the Z axis useless without this c beam mod? I have the upgraded Z kit and am trying to get it calibrated but by the time I get to end of cut test, Z depth is so messed up that it cuts through material even when traveling. I plan to eventually order the parts for c beam, but this can’t be the only way to successfully get through a project. Please help, 3 weeks later and still no cuts 
It’s not useless but rather… not as great. I had the same issues, after the first project i decided to upgrade, now it’s the best thing. It’s one of those “ don’t ask why you should, ask why did you wait to do it” kind of questions.
Thanks for the feedback. Need to do some more research but that meticulous upgrade has me intrigued🤔
My stock z axis with the fixes works great. I keep putting off the upgrade (even though I have all the parts for the meticulous Z axis) because it feels like I am fixing something that isn’t broken. If you have not sanded and deburred the router body and alignment pin groove, I highly recommend it. I also use dry graphite lube on the housing. My biggest ongoing complaint with the stock Z axis now is that it is slow, very slow. YMMV I’m happy to help if I can be of help.
I can understand not wanting to make changes if you just got it cutting properly. I’ll try out the things you suggested until I get parts for the meticulous. If it ends up in a “don’t fix what isn’t broken” state by time I get parts, that will be a welcome issue to contend with
I surely understand. I just spent about 30 hours printing a router clamp another user found on thingiverse because I never really liked the native attachments for the meticulous Z.
As of last night, 3D printer is up and running so plan to run that same bracket soon. Are the hinges strong? Looks like a solid design
Yes, I cut the Top off the Base to allow for additional Z axis.
The base provides with the Attachment for the Vacuum and as a guide for the Router body to provide Extra Support.
But in it’s Stock form, limited the Z axis travel.
Hello, great mount. Can you please share the part list?
I apologize I just noticed your post, I have been using the bracket for awhile now and I still want to improve it but the bracket and the meticulous z-axis changes I could not be happier with.
Hi,
Thank you for the inspiration! The cad model you made is killer, and i’m going to build something similar! Can you upload the CAD files in a .STEP? I can’t seem to download the model from the Onshape tab.
Dillan
Maslow CNC Z-Axis Mod 2_Wood Parts.step (270.8 KB)
The attached .step contains all the wood parts, hopefully thats what you need!
That is very helpful! Do you happen to have the one of the whole assembly?
here you go! Just know that i’ve recently upgraded to 3D printed router clamp. Wood still works but its way harder to swap out router if you use it for other things.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FNAdKziZJ-G0Zss2_12iI5UgAlOkf5mb/view?usp=sharing
You link says “you need permission” FYI.
link should be fixed
Just reaching out to see if there are any updates on this? I don’t have a 3D printer, and I’m looking to improve my Z-axis (mostly hoping for improved precision and faster speed. It seems like I need to buy a new motor and then buy a bunch of modding equipment…are these still the current recommendations?
Updated files, pictures, parts lists for someone with a stock Z-axis looking to achieve the above would be appreciated!
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You can use the stock motor. If you look at my setup, the motor is stock, but I was able to double the speed with a geared belt setup. I also put in links to the various parts I bought to set it up, though your implementation will likely be different (I have a steel sled that I was able to attach my channel to directly). I haven’t changed the setup since I installed it, and it still works well. One thing I might have done differently is to use a z-axis guide that was based on rails or rods rather than the c-channel. something that wouldn’t require any adjustments and would be less likely to get loose.
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Thanks - some of your links contain items that are no longer sold and I’m having a hard time finding a 60-tooth with a 6mm bore. Is 5mm too small? Also, I noticed you said in another post that you lose about an inch due to your mount setup. I’m using a ball-bit to drill divets into a piece for a board game, but that bit comes almost right up to the collet - will that be an issue with this setup?
finally, if one does not have a 3D printer or access to one, what are the options for clamping the router and attaching it to the cbeam? I see people mentioning the “wood clamp” but I’m not finding the right code I guess to see it.
thanks for your help!
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The bore is dependent on the shaft that you are connecting it to. If you have a 6mm Shaft, you need a 6mm bore.
I am not sure, perhaps you could post a picture of your setup and how deep you are cutting into your work piece. With specific problems, the more information you can give, the easier it is to help. for my situation it has not been a problem. The router still goes all the way down tot eh workpiece, but I don’t get the full 200mm of travel out of the C-channel because of the mounting plate and the way that I mounted the router. As I say, though, it hasn’t been an issue, and getting a good 4 inches of travel is fine for me.
You don’t need a 3d printer to make a clamp for your router. I made mine with some delrin (plastic) and hand tools. I would imagine that there are some posts that share code, but you really would be better served to start with a model and then produce the g-code yourself. Running someone else’s g-code can lead to problems if their setup is not the same as what you are using (ie material thickness, router bit, etc). For the first run at a clamp, if you can just cut it out of plywood you should be able to bootstrap up to using the Maslow to cut a more accurate clamp.
As for parts I listed here:
if you run google searches of the specs, you should be able to find what you need (I just tried the second link and it is no longer there, so I googled “60 tooth, 6mm width, 6.35mm bore” and options came up. The first link still connected, as did the 4th link. For the belts, I tried googling “gt2 belt” and this came up
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V6N32B1/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
Hopefully that helps
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