Hey all!
I’m not sure if this gets lost along the way, but I just wanted to chime in and say that I did this mod but since I couldn’t wait for a leadscrew to arrive I have tried with a regular threaded rod instead.
I’m using the same printed parts just with an alternative mount for the nut
I actually don’t know why normal treaded rods aren’t used in cnc machines. I expect it’s got to do with precision and backlash, but backlash isn’t a problem here since the spring in the router takes care of that.
Love the idea btw, the easier it gets, the more people will use it. Couldn’t you print a hexagonal hole in the top of the mount that accepts the nut?
The other reason people dont use normal threaded rods is the pitch… a normal M8 threaded rod is going to be SLOW
Which is ‘fine’ in this scenario really
I was thinking I should redesign the part but after trying the reverse bolt mount out I figured it worked just as good. I built my machine during the weekend and after a single test run without z-axis motor I was really eager to get this to work!
Have been making a few things already with this installed
As both of you say - the router has built-in springs that take care of the backlash and the speed is no issue here. I’m using a plunge-rate of 500 mm/min but that’s from the easel tutorial. it’s slow but it works.
They are also far less durable than ACME threads. I’ve built machines with them,
they work, but it’s hard to get really straight threaded rod, and lead screws
are relativly cheap if you hunt around (surplus center, e-bay, or stripped off
of old equipment)
Indeed they are not as precise or durable… but I had it available. The leadscrew won’t be here for a few weeks and who in their right mind would have a Maslow sitting idle for that Long it’s the most amazing thing since sliced bread! I love the machine!
Hi, I am unsure on how to remove the inner parts to install the z axis mod. Do I need to take the whole green shell off to remove the unneeded parts? Or just the top bit? Thanks.
Thanks for your reply @Dag83, I managed to do it. I followed that tear down guide on youtube that was linked in this forum. Didn’t help it was in another language. A guide would be great for new users though, that may not be too experienced with electronics.
Cut ~40mm off the handles on my bosch 1200 ae. Works fine with the standard ring kit! The cut is at least 10mm away from any wiring or vital components in the handles so there is definitely room for error. This is far easier than cutting the entire handles off and having to rewire the switches. Can be done in ~5 minutes, if you’re looking for a solution for using this router with the standard ring kit, give this a try!
I will model some 3D printable plugs for plugging the holes in the bottom of the handles soon. Will post an update here when I do so.
Looks really nice!
I went all the way and took the full handles away on mine - a pity since it’s not that much that is needed I see.
How much of the interior parts did you remove? I just mounted the shaft couple on the tube inside but I fear that that has cost me some height if I ever need it
Damn I now see why people take off the whole handles. I didn’t realise but the bolt that holds the bearings on the ring kit sticks out, causing me to lose ~5mm of adjustment. Not the end of the world but something keep in mind.
With the interior parts, I went all the way and took the whole green shell off to remove everything. I now have up to 55mm of adjustment. Interesting to hear your method. Please, test to see how much height you get, because your method might be a good option for future users. Removing the whole green shell is not fun, especially on a brand new router.
That is the idea, the 3d printed part goes onto the end of the tube, and the coupler goes into that (long side down) then you can predrill the holes a little, just to be safe. Then put in the screws.
I managed a single test cut that way and started mounting the z axis motor!
