The switch is removed and the router power is now controlled by Ground Control , when it starts cutting it turn the power on and when finished cutting it turns the power off
Made a new hole for the power cord
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Please how did you do that?
check out the forum
search for
"Auto-power switch for router"
happy to give you more advice if you require ,
I got all my information from that topic
it also controls my dust extraction
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Ah…spledid! Thanks!
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regards the linkage
I got an answer back from Logan
“To widen the mounting points the only pieces that would need to be longer are bar B and bar E.
If you made new bars that had a hole spacing of say 10” then you would need to make your mounting points on the sled 10" also.
Alternatively I could make you new pieces (B and E) that would widen your mounting.
I’ve been considering doing that anyway for those with limited router choices.
-Logan"
How wide across is the router with the handles removed? Or is that measurement across where the handles would have been?
How much do the travelers stick out inside the ring?
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I really don’t wanna cut the handles of my router, they don’t screw of like the rigid, you have to actually tahe a saw and cut them off. I might want to use my brand new router for something else later.
At the handles the router is 280mm wide.
Great question. It’s about 30mm which is the diameter of the the bearings. Because the bearings have a grove it’s a little bit less than than that, so 30mm is probably a safe number.
We just have the one size ring right now, but we’re going to have multiple sizes really soon. Probably tomorrow I am going to put together a poll to see what sizes we need. We’ll have a small batch made locally right away, and then more made later.
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How wide across is the router with the handles removed? Or is that measurement across where the handles would have been?
note that on many routers, the handles do not unscrew, you have to cut the case
plastic to remove the handles.
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just a picture to clear up what i measured
Do the rollers have to pass the handles? they can run for about 160° (i guesstimate) Should we futureproof it, and just make one for the rigid, and one that is big enough to fit most concievable routers? If someone finds a better idea router
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You could rotate the router 90deg so the handles go up and down, and then the ring just needs to clear the handles as the rollers wont run there?
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Yes, indeed i could, feel a bit stupid now 
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I like the rotation idea. How wide is it at the base?
the rollers do have to pass the handles, the chains go 160 degrees, but the
wheels go past 180
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the rollers go past the center of the top (the chains get to 10 degrees from
vertical and 10 degrees from horizontal, in both cases the wheels pass the 90
degree angle)
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The top mount linkage kit has 7" arms so that it can clear 12" (300mm) handles.
The earlier version (with 0.26" holes instead of 0.25" holes) fared somewhat
poorly in tests a couple days ago, but we also identified another problem that
could be causing problems.
It’s a LOT easier to make slightly longer arms for the linkage kits than to make
a larger ring.
The rollers do need to pass the handles (160 degrees plus the width of the
rollers pushes them past 180)
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The router only cost £60
And I was happy to cut off the hollow handles with a hacksaw,
With the handles removed
It fits the standard linkage kit
And with the body 160mm across
Im sure it will fit within the ring too.
Job done.
Thanks Ned
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And If you rotate the router 90 degrees the dust extractor will foul the linkage/ring
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