What did you cut today?

Before and after Tung oil. Black walnut with white tinted epoxy. I would’ve been more diligent about bubbles if I had more time, there were a couple in the coordinates.

21 Likes

boxhead

your image isn’t working

Made a couple of signs…

Just learning the joys of cleaning out all the letters of splinters, etc.

Gotta say I love using the 1/8” bit. Need to play with the RPMs to see what’s best… I slowed down the sled to 600 mm / min, and did just one pass at .15” depth. Doing 2 passes really burns up the clock, so my goal is one pass cutting for these pocket cut letters. Any tips would be appreciated.

Thx!

11 Likes

Well I didn’t cut anything but I worked on making my work area more usable by putting radient barrier on the garage door. lol

8 Likes

@Dustcloud Try a downcut bit, they work great on any inlay/pocket cuts. This bit has been my work horse and has preformed pretty well.

2 Likes


I layered 3 bits of acrylic i had laying around to make a 10mm sled. Until now ive been using a square temp sled. Hoping for improved accuracy. Pretty happy with the look of a round semi see through sled :grin::grin:

20 Likes

Looks pretty good. How does the acrylic slide across the cutting surface?

1 Like

Looks great, hopefully it won’t scratch up too much from use. Let us know cause a see through sled would be awesome

2 Likes

Thank you, ive only cut the calibration bench mark at the moment and there wasn’t a noticeable difference compared to the mdf sled i was using prior. I think scratching will be an issue at some point, i did see a post about furniture movers on the base of sled so might look in to that down the track. But for now your right a see though sled is a pretty sweet addition :blush:

You should be able to wax the acrylic. Don’t think the furniture pads will work, as they might catch in your cuts.

1 Like

I had wondered the same thing about those @Dustcloud. Thanks for the tip on wax, any recommendation on type? Seems like a positive addition to the base :wink:

Hi @Jetstar, here is another possibility, not sure how well it would work but it would protect from most scratches while keeping it transparent.

1 Like

I am using a furniture wax I bought at HD. There is a paste wax that is sold at Woodcraft/Rockler that is from Britain that is supposed to be the Cat’s Meow, but is pricy, though said to be a lifetime supply. I would thing an auto paste wax would work, especially on the plexi.

1 Like

Few hiccups along the way but finished this beast today. Just have to seal and maybe paint :blush:

29 Likes

Any chance of getting the CAD/cam files? You would make two little guys very happy :wink:

2 Likes

That is awesome!!! I do hope you share the files for this.

All the projects you have all made are simply awesome. I finally got my machine going, read some stuff from these forums to troubleshoot, I still feel… iffy about it all haha. first CNC experience ever, and none of my friends like to pretend to know what i’m working on. Thankfully this forum is so active, I haven’t even started trying to make multi layer or 2.5 d stuff, anyways, here’s my first two cuts, on mdf.

14 Likes

First project…game board made of oak slats from skids/pallets…trimmed with walnut…with paduuk splines in corners (that you can’t see).
1/2" holes cut 1/4" deep and filled with coloured epoxy. 1st clear coat with varathane.

Great to have it up and running…

16 Likes

Beginnings of a dust/particle separator lid…

Note the flat surfaces in the outer edge…I draw in Sketchup and that is the default way Sketchup makes circles. You can increase the number of surfaces to make it appear smooth but I didn’t notice till I was watching it cut. Not an issue for this application but will have to pay attention in future…

6 Likes