What did you do today?

Prepped the worm carrier for the bushing as seen here http://maslowcommunitygarden.org/Inexpensive-add-ons-for-z-axis-slack-imprecision.html

My choice for bonder was PC-7, mix black and grey. Kindof a paste no runs.

1/2 inch bolt with some washers to bring the thread in play. Packing tape on the bolt to prevent bonding. I assembled the clip and bushing with PC-7 on the bushing, put the nut on top and tightened it down.
![IMG_20180804_232907|666x500](upl oad://8APTcCGYiX2oFC2fNFm8O47nFym.jpg)
Various pictures of the router housing after sanding, went up to 600 grit. Worked on the grove where the alignment pin runs the most. The casting in that grove is really rough, pretty slick now. I’m going to try graphite dry lub on inbetween the router and the housing.


Well PC-7 did not stick to the magnezium, don’t use PC-7. I coated 1/2" bolt with bees wax and used super glue gel to stick the bushing on the carrier. We’ll see how that holds up.


Update, wanted to cut tonight but the superglue failed on assembly of the router. Trying JB weld now…:face_with_symbols_over_mouth:


I used gorilla gel glue and so far that has held up to about 30 hours of use with no signs of problem. In my shop I also have a handle that is gorilla glued to 2 cinder blocks and has lasted for over 12 years. So that is my vote! GORILLA GLUE!!!

Edit: Just as a side note, I used pam on the thru bolt so that it would not stick. I glued it after work one day and then took it in to work the next day. (glued for only about 14 hours)

Hope this helps.


Thanks! I saw that GG was used in the “Inexpensive fixes for z-axis” article I’m just not a big fan of PU glue and couldn’t imagine it working that well on metal. If JB fails me I guess that is the next step. When I glued with JB weld I put some thin scotch tape on the 1/2" bolt and that seemed to work well.


By the way feel free to post what you did today here too. I’m back cutting as I type. Got the Z axis sorted pretty sharp now. One big but though, I set the travel height at 5mm (default) and it did that before it started running GCode then it went to .5 inches which is a hair away from ruinning the new bushing setup I installed into the top of the lead screw. I’m guessing that is a setting in makercam I glossed over newbie style. I hope it doesn’t crash someone else.

That’s no good, did you put the new bushing on the top or bottom of the stock one? I know I had to put it on top or I would not be able to cut through 3/4” plywood.

I installed it on the top as per the instructions. At .5" it was maybe 2K of an inch from hitting the top of the lead screw. The default traverse height in ground control is 5 mm or .1968". The default safety height is .5" in maker cam. The Z axis was returning to .5" between every separate opeation or path change. The cut I ran last night took like 5 hrs, alot of that time was Z axis running up and down. Now that my z axis is running really accurately I will probably set the safety height to .15" in makercam in the future. I was so busy with the other aspects I didn’t even think about that setting in makercam.

I need to do some studying up on CAD/CAM tollpaths etc. now. I need to figure out the nesting stuff.


Fishing rod carrier project. 2" pvc for the tubes. If anyone is interested I will post the project once I have made any updates following construction of the prototype. I should have it completed by this weekend.


Finished cutting out the parts tonight.


So how did it work? Any pictures of the finished prototype?

Life got in the way, I bought the PVC for the tubes and it looks like everything will work great. Stay tuned.

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Made some progress on the rod carrier today, not completely done still need to add the fold down legs.


Here it is. :grin:


I had a request for project files @ChrisB, so here they are. The add project link on the community garden is not working for me. These files are free for use and not to be redistributed for monitary gain. Use at your own risk, user assumes all risk.

The construction is pretty straight forward. I will cover the hight points.

After cutting the parts out I used a roundover bit to remove the sharp edges on all parts except the spacers. I assembled the backbone and carriers first. I used wood glue and clamps on the front carrier and wood glue and drywall screws for the rear carrier. Then I prepped and installed the PVC tubes. I used 2" schedule 40 pvc cut to 21". I cut the slots in the PVC on a 10"miter saw. I sanded the edges of the PVC to remove sharpness. I used drywall screws and wood glue to attach the PVC to the carriers. A 3/8" access hole was drilled in the rear portion of the PVC to allow pre-drilling and installation of the rear drywall screws. The front drywal screw is easily pre-drilled and installed using the rod slot for acess. All screws in this project were counter sunk.

The legs can be adjustable or fixed. I made mine adjustable. If the legs are fixed ignore the nut installation instructions. The four spacers are glued together in pairs to create two spacers. You will wan’t to dry fit the spacers and legs to determine where to install the nut for the leg bolts. Where the nuts are placed will greatly affect how much work needs to be done to make the legs fold up. I glued in two spacer nuts to accomodate the bolts that allow the legs to be adjustable. A spacer nut or t-nut can be used. Be sure to install the nuts at the proper angle so that the thumb screws, wing nuts or hold down of your choice is at 90 degrees to the face of the legs when assembled. The spacers are glued and screwed to the backbone, aligned with the bottom edge in front of the front carrier. The thick end is the bottom end.

The legs can then be dry fitted to determine the location for the thumb screw or bolt hole for the hold down. The inside corner of the leg will need to be sanded slightly to allow the leg to rotate up and down freely (optional), the location of the bolt hole will greatly affect how much sanding is needed.

The final step is to purchase and install ball bungies to attach near the end of the slotted end of the PVC. They should be postitioned far enough away from the edge to prevent them slipping off the end of the PVC. I drilled two very small holes in the locations I wanted the bungies and used small zip ties to attach the ball bungies to the outside of the PVC opposite the slots. I then trimmed the bungie cords to length for a snug fit around the outside of the PVC and trimmed the zip ties. Cheers, I hope you enjoy.

Thumb Screws (example)

Spacer nut (example)

Ball Bungee (example)

Rod Carrier Sketchup File

These SVG files were made in makercam, the toolpaths are setup as indicated in the below gcode files but can be easily modified. You will need to add the tabs yourself if you use these SVG files.

Rod Carrier Backbone SVG file

Rod Carrier, Carriers SVG file

Rod Carrier, spacers and legs SVG file

These gcode files include tabs and compatible with my setup. I use the Ridgid router with z axis fixes installed and the ring system.

Gcode Tool Diameter .25", Target depth -.73" (23/32), Safety height .2", Step down .05", Feedrate 15 in/min, Plunge rate 20 in/min.
Backbone Gcode
Gcode Tool Diameter .25", Target depth -.73" (23/32), Safety height .2", Step down .1825", Feedrate 18 in/min, Plunge rate 30 in/min.
Carriers Gcode
Gcode Tool Diameter .25", Target depth -.73" (23/32), Safety height .2", Step down .05", Feedrate 15 in/min, Plunge rate 20 in/min.
Spacers and Legs Gcode


Awesome write up, Thanks so much! I will be looking at making this soon for my brother in law and maybe another friend. They love their fishin!

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Just wanted to say thanks again @ShadyG I was able to make a pretty close replica (I made the legs permanent and painted it green) picture was right before paint.



Are there files for this in the Community Garden?

If two people made them then I bet there are more folks out there who would like to

Bar –

My guess is that they are not, but Shady shared them above if someone wants to copy them?

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Wow Chris that is great! I’m ticklied pink it was useful for you.

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