Dude you’re always reading my mind. Was eyeing a water cooled spindle last night.
Just add rubbing alcohol to the water to prevent freezing. Get the 90% since it’s already cut with distilled water already.
remember, those CNC spindles are designed for metal cutting, not for wood.
speeds and feeds. 
Those CNC spindles are used on wood everyday. You control the speed and the feed. They aren’t just on. They are variable and do as they are told. People is then for small wood Diy CNC routers everyday.
You can get small ones like used on the X-Carve
And a made for woodworking 2hp router will eat through 1/2" aluminum like wood all day. Just causes a lil more but wear.
Or blue windshield washer squirter juice. Pink RV antifreeze might be even better, know both are used in CO2 lasers, although they may cause some electrical leakage from the high voltage.
@dlang - second iRoc999, they’re marketed to and used by woodworkers all the time, and standard equipment on many commercial CNC wood routers. Way quieter than a brushed router (for those who have neighbors, work during the day, and who aren’t married to an audiologist) and as much power as you want to pay for. Like you say, feeds and speeds, plus the appropriate bits.
The Makita RT0700CJ looks like an interesting small machine.
I’m a bit puzzled how to mount the motor for z-axis, still i would like to keep this router in mind
EDIT: With it’s optional plunge base it seems like it could be a workable option
https://www.protoolsdirect.co.uk/sites/default/files/imagecache/product_full/1955630SL500_AA300_.jpg
The standard unit’s depth is run by a rack-and-pinion, so the z-axis motor might drive it if mounted horizontally to attach to the pinion shaft.
Wouldn’t that require more motor power to push the bit into the material?
To me it seems like the plunge base is geared down an extra bit by the threaded rod.
Though i can’t find any detailed info on that. So i could be wrong.
However it would save about €70 on the cost of that optional plunge base… hmmmm a 500W china spindle is $80 … so many things to consider . 
One could try without the plunge base and buy it if the experiment failed . The gearing of the plunge base would add finer resolution to the z adjustment, though.
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going to keep an eye on the second hand market for thisone
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I have a triton attached to my Maslow. the Z Axis works well, the only problem I have at the moment is that the motor end of the router is quite heavy, so when you wind the bit out the sled starts to lift off the work surface. I think I’m going to try a third brick at the top of the sled. I have the Z axis motor mounted on the top of the router so it goes in and out as the bit goes in and out. I’m just using a bit of wood for now, I may 3D print something later. I think I added details of the mount on the router pages.
I machined out a 10mm coupler to fit the depth spindle, as well, as it wasn’t big enough.
TREND T11E
Hello, I got started with my Maslow build about 2 months ago and ground to a halt on electronics.
So, I concentrated on the sled and router. Initially I was going to build it for a copy of a Makita trimmer (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KATSU-3-8-1-4-Electric-Hand-Trimmer-Wood-Laminator-Router-Joiners-Tool-220V/281944547910?epid=6009680146&hash=item41a5346246:g:dTYAAOSwlMFZKfh3) as I have one in the shop. But, it’s really light and small, so I opted to sled my Trend T11E. (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trend-T11EK-2000W-1-2in-Variable-Speed-Workshop-Router-240V-/232340357688).
The Trend has a Z-axis that looks like it will be relatively easy to hook up to a drive, and the router weighs a lot. My thinking was that I may not need to add as much weight to the sled and as such would have space for balancing the centre of Gravity. Unfortunately I’m still struggling with Motor connectivity, so can not give any feedback yet to my design. Will update when it works! If anyone else has used either of the above, I’d be very interested to hear your results/outcome.
Cheers,
Miles
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I should be receiving my Maslow in the next few days, I was wondering if there is a definitive answer to the best router for Europe, I am UK based. I have ordered the 10mm coupler but this can be changed if necessary.
I was considering the compact Makita but after watching the video I am not sure this would be suitable.
Thanks,
Will
All Makitas I’ve checked can’t lock the hight adjustment. Do you have a model number?
I think we are going with the AEG now, which I think uses the 10mm coupler? Thank you
Will
Is it possible to use this AEG router aswell with the new ring update?
https://www.gereedschapcentrum.nl/aeg-mf-1400-ke-bovenfrees-inclusief-accessoire-in-tas-1400w-4935411850.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw8_nXBRAiEiwAXWe2yTgjvmIDwV_2u8xggg2zOt8hHGealKt1toN0cyfVZ7sZ25cBh1JmHxoCKb4QAvD_BwE
Hi Jurre, did you try the AEG updated body? as I see it it’s not going to work with the z-axis motor as I can’t see a thread operated depth control. Is there other European options out there with the z axis control… greatful for any ideas 
Bosch POF1200 is an option:
I looked for the “prefered” router (RIDGID) around Paris and some retailer are ok to ordered it but I can’t find any “on the shelves”. So I am a bit woried for the support.
It seem’s that AEG is a more common item here. Are there any AEG user in the “Maslow field” ?
I also tought that a big battery power one might do the trick and considering that they are almost all brushless it should be ok on the long run. But then there might be someting big that I don’t see about using a battery one even if I use an external DC supply.
Any tought?
Have a look at the tested router list: Choosing a Router or Spindle