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Bosch POF 1200 z-axis conversion guide


#1

This is the guide to convert your Bosch POF 1200 (or POF 1400) to fit in the ring, and to accept a z-axis.
If you’re using a linkage kit, like @dlang 's you don’t need to do the cutting off parts.
The kit with the parts is available here
Or you can print your own
The Fusion 360 files to cut your own top mount on your maslow are here, in the garden


Remove the screw…


Pry off the clip with a screwdriver…


Remove 4 screws and take off the top cap…

Remove blue wire connections from both sides…

Remove 4 small screws…

Use small screwdriver to hold in the spring loaded motor brush…

Pry out carefully…

Remove 4 x base screws…

Remove the hidden screw and adjacent screw…

Carefully separate parts…

Remove adjustment cone…

Remove the remaining screws…

Pry open handle to expose trigger switch…

Remove 2 x screws…

Pull out the trigger switch and move it out of the way…

Cut off the handle and tidy up the cut…

Remove small screws and take out live & neutral…

Cut remaining trigger switch wires (can be carefully removed by taking apart trigger switch, your choice)…

Remove screw…

Cut off handle and tidy up the cut…

Remove the height adjustment lever lock screw…

The exposed nut is an opposite thread (right to loosen) remove assembly…

Rebuild blank plates before next step…

Progress so far…

Now add the 3d printed part from the bosch kit

Z-axis%20Bosch%2025%20-%20Install%20nut%20mount

Now the nut

Z-axis%20Bosch%2026%20-%20install%20nut

Now add the 4 screws. It might help to pre-drill these a bit with a very small drill. Don’t overtighten !!
Remark: in some cases the nut pops out when using the z-axis. Best to fix it to the shaft using small screws. Don’t drill through the cap and be sure to not clutch the shaft.

Z-axis%20Bosch%2027%20-%20screw%20nut

Drill a hole the power cord can go trough

Z-axis%20Bosch%2028%20-%20drill%20hole%20for%20power%20cord

Time to start rebuilding everything in the opposite order, you’ll figure it out :wink:

Connect the power cord, polarity doesn’t matter.

Refit the motor brushes, carefully, if you chip them, they’ll still work, but wear out much faster. and you’ll allready be abusing the router way more then it was designed for.

Find a nice spot to place the power connector, make sure that hole stays clear for the acme screw to pass later.

Z-axis%20Bosch%2032%20-%20place%20power%20block

Refit the cover. It is a good idea to put a ty-rap around the cable on the inside so that the cable doesn’t come out when it gets pulled.

Z-axis%20Bosch%2033%20-%20refit%20cover

Time to find your hacksaw and cut off another piece.

Voila


Now to assemble the top mount.
First mount the motor on the plate with the screws provided in the Maslow box

Z-axis%20Bosch%2035%20-%20start%20z%20axis

Next install all the parts as shown in the photo. A bit of glue between the parts won’t hurt, the part gets a lot of tortion, and might require retightening later on.

Make sure the coupler is just barely touching the plate on the side of the acme screw, that way you’re not puling apart your coupler.

Now just screw the top part into the router, connect to groundcontrol so you can raise and lower it, and start making beautiful things. :slight_smile:

Now all that’s left is changing the pitch in the settings of groundcontrol from -3.17 to -8 and you should be done.

Happy Maslowing.


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#2

I’m stuck a bit at picture 6 and 7: hold down spring loaded motor brush on one side and pry out the golden colored piece.
However, I seems I’m not holding down anything if I try to get out the piece. However, that piece is attached to something, not allowing me to get it out (without forcing it).
So I thought, maybe I need to keep down the plastic piece attached to the golden colored piece I’m getting out. But when I try to pry it out, it feels like forcing once again…

Edit: they popped out when I carefully removed the body.


#3

The carbon piece touching the puece with all the copper strips is the conductor that transfers current tonthe electromagnet in the middle, to put it in engineers babytalk :wink:
It rubs against the rotor (not a typo) constantly, so if it is damaged it will wear out faster, you should be able to order spares from Bosch. That’s why it is better to remove it carefully.


#4

Hey dag83, thanks for the guide you have posted also thanks @Ned for the 3d parts you designed. As a result i habe been able to complete the z axis attachment to my bosch. This is the first stage completed for my build :grinning:

I still have to remove handles though. Which brings me to my question @Dag83. Do you intend on running router as constant on or controlled by ground control?

Again many thanks


#5

Right now i just plug it in and out, but i am planning to control it trough groundcontrol.


Walkthrough from ordering to cutting your own designs
#6

Good day !
Faced with the problem of lowering the axis of the z, it constantly descends to different depths. We have been trying to find a problem for two months, but all is unsuccessful. We greased the Bosch router, but it did not bring success.
When we ask the lowering to a depth of 10mm, it is lowered by 5mm or 3mm. When we set the descent to a depth of 25mm, it drops to 13mm or 12mm.
Who faced such a problem? How can it be solved or is it normal?


#7

Set the Z-axis pitch in your settings to -8. I think it’s still on -3.17.


#8

Right, i’ll try taking some pictures to put it in the guide today.


#9

somewhere here ?


#10

z-axis pitch, found.

I’ll be there tomorrow.

Thank you so much !


#11

Hi. we asked -8, now it lowers instead of 20mm by 5mm, what are we doing wrong?


#12

It depends on the pitch of your leadscrew. If you are using the Z-axis kit from Dag83 then the pitch is 8mm/rev. Based on your comment it sounds that it should be closer to -1.5 instead of -8. So trial an error is my best advice at this point :slight_smile:


#13

earned at a value of -2. but now a new problem we can not do is not finished in the program makerkam. he does not leave them.


#14

it seems that you need to put a value with a minus, but it does not allow to save

we work with a negative dive value


#15

Why don;t the link work? The kit with the parts is available here


#16

Not sure, i’ll look into it in the morning


#17

Thanks Dag83


#18

Oow, it was still linking to the old store, should be fixed now.


#19

Just a quick question, should this bit (see image) be behind the the white plastic or in front, as per the image?


#20

i’m not sure, could you take a photo from a diffrent angle, i don’t recognize the part.